While staying in Oaxaca for 2.5 weeks, taking Spanish classes while also exploring the city and its surroundings, I made a little weekend trip to San José del Pacífico. A little scared because of all the stories I’d heard about the bus ride there, I booked a bus, a hostel, and made my way to the Mexican mountains. Besides it being a magical mushroom town hidden between the clouds, I didn’t know much about where I was going.
Everything you need to known before going to San José del Pacífico
The curvy bus ride from Oaxaca to San José del Pacífico
I only had two nights free. The town seemed small, like the perfect place to relax, enjoy some fresh air, green surroundings, and nature. In my opinion, it sounded like the perfect weekend trip from Oaxaca, and a friend had been there before and loved it.
I walked to the Líneas Unidas bus station, got myself a spot on the next bus, and prepared for a curvy 3.5-hour ride. The ride cost me about 180 Mexican pesos if I remember correctly, so almost 10 euros. The bus from Oaxaca to San José del Pacífico leaves almost every hour. So if you don’t have a tight schedule, just go there and get your ticket. Otherwise, you could come earlier in the day or the day before to secure your spot.
The 3.5 hours on the bus weren’t too bad. I was expecting to get carsick, but maybe all the horror stories had prepared me for something much worse. I also made sure to book a window seat. And one close to the driver. That probably helped too. In the end, it was more the fact that the driver seemed extremely comfortable taking every curve at quite a high speed than the road itself. He didn’t seem to care. I definitely did. But there wasn’t much I could do besides accepting it, trying to “relax,” and enjoying the views along the way.
From the drop-off point in San José del Pacífico, it was still about a 25-minute walk to the hostel I’d booked. Time to stretch my legs a bit. Walking alongside the road felt a little sketchy, but there wasn’t much traffic anyway, and the views were beautiful. You can also hop into a tuk-tuk. There are plenty driving around town, taking people wherever they need to go.
Staying at Bostel Rancho Viejo in San José del Pacífico
While looking for hotels and hostels in San José del Pacífico, there were multiple options. But one really spoke to me. The hostel I booked for my two nights was Bostel Rancho Viejo. A beautifully located hostel with shared dorms and private cabins as well. With a little fireplace in the living room and stunning views over the mountains, it seemed like the perfect place for a cozy weekend. And it was.
Honestly, I expected to get plenty of rest here, spend some time walking in nature, and simply slow down. Instead, I met people from all over the world, and we stayed up chatting until late almost every night.
So if you’re traveling solo to San José del Pacífico, I’d definitely recommend staying at Bostel Rancho Viejo. They organise events like pizza nights, yoga sessions, temazcal experiences, and more. You can easily be social, but there are also plenty of quiet corners where you can relax with a book or lie in one of the hammocks.
Besides being a comfortable and fun hostel, it was also incredibly beautiful. Definitely one of the most beautiful hostels I’ve ever stayed at. They have a restaurant where you can go for drinks or food at any time of the day. It’s a beautiful spot, so definitely go! In the hostel there is also a kitchen where you can cook yourself, and there is a tiny store that sells basic stuff.
I only booked a few days before. Maybe I was lucky there was still a spot, because some other people wanted to extend their stay, but it seemed to be full when they tried. So if you know you’re going, book your stay in advance just to be sure.
Doing a temazcal ritual in the woods
While doing a bit of research about what to do in San José del Pacífico, one experience kept coming up over and over again (besides the magical mushrooms): a temazcal ritual.
A temazcal is a traditional Mesoamerican steam ceremony, often led by a local guide or shaman. It’s seen as a way to cleanse the body and mind, reconnect with nature, and experience a spiritual form of purification. And one thing is guaranteed: you will sweat. A lot.
Reading about it honestly made me a bit nervous. Just like the bus ride had. Saunas have never really been my thing, and this sounded even more intense. But on the other hand… I was here now. And of course I wanted to try new things, this being one of them. It also helped that the hostel was organising the ceremony for some of the guests. Having already met a few people the night before who were also joining convinced me to sign-up to go as well.
The next morning we gathered. We chatted. We got naked. Not completely naked, swimwear was perfectly fine 😉 But it was cold, windy, and cloudy outside, so stepping into a hot, steamy room in the middle of the mountains suddenly didn’t sound so bad after all.
The shaman explained the ceremony and guided us through the experience. It consisted of four rounds, each connected to one of the natural elements. With every round, it became hotter and more intense. After the first two rounds, I felt completely fine. The “This is it?” that had crossed my mind slowly turned into “Okay… this is getting really hot. How am I supposed to survive another round?” by the third.
Did my vision turn dark blue with little spots during the last two rounds? Yes. Did I feel like I might faint and briefly consider leaving? Also yes. I’m glad I stayed, though. Focusing on my breathing helped. So did the huge bottle of water the person next to me offered me. Those last few minutes felt endless. You also never really know how many “last few minutes” are left. But I made it through all four rounds, and I was genuinely proud afterwards.
It was an intense but beautiful experience, that lasted more or less an hour. Walking out of the temazcal, I felt calm and connected. To my body, my mind, and the nature around me. It took a while to readjust. To the light, to talking to people again, and of course to the temperature outside. Afterwards, we all shared how we felt, and it seemed like everyone was in more or less the same headspace.
So, in conclusion: I’m really happy I did it. It’s an experience I’ll definitely remember, and I learned a many things along the way.
If you’re thinking about doing a temazcal but aren’t completely sure yet, here’s what helped me:
- Remember that there is a door. If you sit close to it, you can leave if you really need to. You’re never trapped.
- Focus on your breathing.
- Bring plenty of water and make sure you stay hydrated.
- Don’t feel pressured to “push through.” Listen to your body.
Exploring the town
San José del Pacífico is a small town. There are things to explore, but not that many. And honestly, that’s exactly what I wanted. I imagine most people come here to relax, enjoy nature, go for hikes, and maybe experience the famous magic mushrooms.
In the little town centre, you’ll find a handful of restaurants along the main road, together with small souvenir shops. Walk a little further uphill and have lunch with a view at Cafetería Punto Sur. It’s a lovely stop while exploring some of the streets higher up in town.
I was also hoping to try some tamales from Tamales y Atole, but unfortunately they only had meat-filled ones left by the time I got there. If you have better timing than I did, I’ve heard they’re definitely worth trying.
Around the area you’ll also find viewpoints, swings, and a few fun photo spots overlooking the mountains. There are hiking trails leading to nearby villages as well, but unfortunately I ran out of time before I could do one. As you wander around, you’ll come across lots of magical, mystical mushroom-inspired street art, perfectly matching the vibe of San José del Pacífico.
I only booked two nights, but honestly I could have easily stayed a few more days if I hadn’t needed to be back in Oaxaca on Sunday evening. It was peaceful, beautiful, and I wouldn’t have minded spending a few more days wandering through the cloudy mountains, watching the sunset (if the clouds decided to cooperate), and enjoying a few more cozy evenings at Bostel Rancho Viejo.
Good to know before heading to San José del Pacífico
Getting to San José del Pacífico is easy from Oaxaca (and I heard to same if you come from Puerto Escondido). I took a Líneas Unidas shared minibus, which leaves throughout the day and takes around 3.5 hours. The ticket cost me 180 MXN one way. If you get carsick easily, I’d definitely recommend booking a window seat near the front of the bus.
At an altitude of around 2,500 metres, San José del Pacífico is much cooler than Oaxaca. Even if it’s warm in the city, bring a sweater, long trousers and maybe even a rain jacket. The weather changes quickly, and mornings and evenings can be surprisingly chilly. The mist rolling through the mountains is part of what gives the town its magical atmosphere, but it also means you won’t always get those endless mountain views. If you’re lucky, the clouds will clear around sunset.
As for how long to stay, I’d recommend at least two nights. It gives you enough time to settle in, explore the town, do a hike or a temazcal ceremony, and simply enjoy the slower pace of life. If you’re looking to really disconnect, spend more time in nature, or try a few hikes, three or four nights definitely wouldn’t be too much. I only had a weekend, but I easily could have stayed longer.
Enjoy your trip from Oaxaca to San José del Pacífico! It’s literally a magical place and a great change of scenery after having been in the city for a few weeks. If you have just time for a one day trip, go to Teotitlán del Valle or go from Oaxaca to Mitla. Also two beautiful towns to visit! For more activities outside of the city center, these are my recommendations for day trips to make from Oaxaca City.
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